This poem was written by me a couple years back, but I made a few changes to it. My love for the ocean and surfing is something that I’m truly blessed with. Before I jump into the water I get a blissful feeling every time and this poem is for those big days when I feel so comfortable out there, but jumping in and getting out there sometimes is the most tricky part where timing is everything.
your thoughts.” —
you mustn’t oversleep.” —
the people who treat you right.. Forget about the
ones who don’t.” —
I’m having a great birthday week so far! Got to surf Honolua Bay really fun, found $20 on the ground and my bf got me a waterproof camera and a sewing machine for my birthday! Looking forward to tonite! Kai sushi, friends, family, and Timbas!
Couldn’t ask for more…so THANKFUL! 24 and more to come!